RE: Inverter 101
When you say "UPS" as in "Uninterruptable Power Source", is that like the APC Battery Back Ups we use on our computers? If so, wouldn't they constantly try to put AC into the inverter, even if the generator was off, keeping the inverter off? Am I missing something?
RE: Inverter 101
Yes. The wiring diagram shows a standard looking "AC Input" cord going out the back.
WAIT!!! It mentions a "T Option" (AC from generator or electric utility) on the diagram and the write up says "When the ext 120 VAC is supplied, the INTERNAL TRANSFER RELAY is automatically activated and the inverter is turned off. The inverter will not turn on when the TRANSFER RELAY is activated."
It doesn't discuss timing or delay, doesn't tell you to shut anything down first. So you can flip the switch to the inverter to ON with the generator running or plugged in with no fear (???) but the inverter won't turn on until the AC is removed. I think I'd figured that out already. I wonder what happens the other direction. If the Low Battery light comes on the inverter and I fire up the generator, I'll bet the tv and sat restart either immediately or once the generator stabilizes. Hmm.
RE: Inverter 101
What teb said is what I ASS U MEd from the beginning and, lacking any documentation otherwise, have always turned everything off, shut down the gen, turned on the inverter and then the tv. It's damned inconvenient and then my buddy said "you shouldn't have to do that" so here I am at the forums seeking enlightenment.
I just found an email for Dimensions customer service. I'll shoot them an inquiry and get back to the forums with their response.
On a similar note, the only outlets in the RV that appear connected to the inverter are the entertainment (tv, satellite, vcr) ones. I'd think there would be at least one AC outlet for plugging into but apparently not. Is that typical among built in inverters in other RVs?
RE: Inverter 101
There are extremely limited "specs" on the inverter provided to me by Winnebago. It shows the rating (12.6vdc in at 30 and 40 ADC and 120/300 or 400w out) and "battery to inverter distance. That's it. They also show a very simplistic Wiring Diagram but there are no relays on it nor does the word "transfer" appear on it. It pretty much just shows connections.
RE: Inverter 101
Hi Sam, Sorry. Yes. It's a Dimensions DUI-12/300T.
Transfer switch????? I have a breaker and an On/Off switch on the front panel. Rear panel is DC in, AC out.
Inverter 101
I have a 2006 Winnebago Sightseer W26P and from the get go the charging and electrical have dismayed me. I have numerous inverter issues. Here's the first:
The manual is useless but a fellow RV'er told me that I should be able to turn the inverter on with the generator running and then turn off the gen. If I do, the TV and sat receiver "restart". That doesn't seem right.
I'm an inverter dummy so where should I start? Any help is much appreciated.
Steve
RE: Class V receiver for small RV?
The height should be ok. My existing receiver works well with the hitch/ball setup that I use on my lifted truck, about a 10" drop. The bottom of the existing receiver is 22" from the ground. Frame/extension is 24" from ground.
The figures I quoted are from the Workhorse Chassis book and the same as on the panel on the wall next to the driver: GVWR 16,000 lb (7,258 KG), GAWR (front) 6,500 lbs, GAWR (rear) 10,500 lbs. Panel says "Manufactured by Winnebago" and "Incomplete vehicle manufactured by Workhorse CC". Oddly, neither source has a GCWR, only the RV brochure which shows it at 22,000 lbs.
The water tank is indeed behind the rear axle. When we need the water is when after we arrive from towing, but I could find a place near the destination, usually Glamis, to fill the tank and then dump the excess fresh water before we return home. All that would keep towing near the edge at a minimum.
I agree that a trip to the local scale is in order.
Thanks for all the great input. Keep it coming!! Steve
RE: Class V receiver for small RV?
It is a Class A on a CHEVY Workhorse chassis. It does have an extension welded onto the frame. Not sure where I came up with 7000 lb tow capacity as both the chassis book and the rv brochure shows GVWR at 16000 and the RV brochure shows GCWR at 22000. That leaves 6000 for the tow. Even the 35' Sightseer comes standard with the 5000 lb hitch with the same 6000 lb diff in GVWR & GCWR.
If I spring for a Class IV hitch, so long as I kept the trailer max at 6000 lb, I should be ok, yes? A guy from Curt Mfg emailed me this: "I have a class 4 hitch that is designed for cab & chassis trucks with 34” frames. Part number is 14082 and I have attached and instruction sheet. Again, it’s designed more for full size trucks than RV’s so the drop may not be perfect, but the width will fit the 34” frame. The total drop to the hitch is 7.38”
Class V receiver for small RV?
I have a 2006 Winnebago W26P Sightseer with a GTWR 7,000 lb tow capacity but a 5000 lb hitch. I have a 3000 lb Carson Hwy Cargo enclosed 20' trailer and a 2000 lb sand car. I thought I could just go online and find a heavier duty hitch but I'm not finding one for an RV.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Steve
RE: Trailers for wide sand rails
I'm concluding that no matter what, I'm going I can't drive onto any enclosed trailer or toy hauler with the paddles on the back taking up 100" of width, so I'll be swapping those everytime I pull the car in or out if I'm using rear paddles which is 99% of the time.
The goal then, it seems, is to find a way to leave the front sand tires/razors on ALL the time. Since they take up 90", if I want to drive in forward and back out, I'd have to do as you say and design a ramp system. Since the car is longer than back door to front of wheel wells, I'd have to extend the wheel wells with something to drive the front tires on or else I'd have to back out up over the wheel wells. That doesn't sound promising.
I think backing the car in and driving the car out is the answer. With the razors on the front, I'd have to stop before they hit the wheel wells and likely I'd want to do that anyway to preserve the space in the front of the trailer for tools, quad, dirt bike, etc. The rear tires have to be swapped so I might as well put the skinnys on so I can pull through the wheel well with no ramp.
The only problem I see is that I have 90" door hole to pull 90" worth of front tires through. Hopefully I can finesse that without grinding a door or some weird thing.
RE: Trailers for wide sand rails
NOW..... What can you tell me about removing the cables from the rear door/ramp?
The springs on top the door that pull the cables has WARNINGs all over it so I don't want to unleash a monster or decapitate anyone. What would be ideal would be to set it up so that I could connect and disconnect the cables to load the car, but I have a feeling the extreme tension involved would prevent this and I'll end up taking the cables off and leaving them off. Even for that I might need to go to the local garage door guy for assistance. I've seen trailers of a different manufacturer that have only 1 cable on 1 side, but I can't imagine being able to just disconnect one of mine as it's designed for 2 cables.
Input?
RE: Trailers for wide sand rails
The door opening is a hair under 90". I've shimmied the cables to get 87" between them. I could move the connectors on the door to get a little more, or, take the cables off altogether and muscle the door open and closed. Is that what you're thinking? With the sand tires on the front (90"), if I removed the cables, I could put the skinnies on the back (80") and back the car in until the front tires were in but stop before they hit the wheel wells. That way I would only be having to swap 1 set, the rear sand tires, to move it in and out of the trailer and I wouldn't need to use the ramps.
Even with a Toy Hauler I'd still be swapping a set of tires to put it in and out of the trailer so this is looking like the best play so far. THANKS!!!!
RE: Trailers for wide sand rails
It's complicated. The measurements depend upon which which tires are on the front and which are on the back. with sand tire on front 90" skinnies on back 80" ( with paddles around 100")
with dirt tires on front 93" with dirt on rear 87". These aren't typos. The front tires are farther apart than the rears.
Right now, the process is dirt tires on back 87" & skinnies on front which is 84". The back tires barely clear the 87" that is between the cables supporting the drop down door/ramp. With this set up, I still have to ride motorcycle ramps up the wheel wells which have 82" between them. I've considered buying a 2nd set of skinnies for the rear and then back the rail onto the trailer, back wheels going between the wheel wells and stopping when the front tires hit the wheel wells. That would at least eliminate the need for ramps.
All the swapping of tires back and forth is a hassle. It gets even worse if, like me, you aren't comfortable leaving a $50,000 rail sitting outside overnight at Glamis. I don't have the garage space at home and need an enclosed trailer there. It's complicated.
I'll ck out the sporttrailersonline.com and keep reading here. There's a way to do it. Some are just easier and less expensive than others. We'll find it.
Trailers for wide sand rails
I have a Class A RV and my Carson Hwy Cargo 20'x8.5' trailer won't easily accomodate the wide sand rail I just bought without using motorcycle ramps and skinny tires. I don't need all the fancy facilities of a toy hauler (wife said "We're NOT leaving the RV home!) but people keep telling me I need a toy hauler for the interior space.
Any suggestions?
Steve
